 Indoor Cage Building Tutorial
Part of the fun of owning giant chameleons is creating their enclosures. The larger and more comfortable the cage or free-range, the more likely the giants will breed successfully. I decided to make a custom enclosure that utilized the same location and approximate size of my former free-range, with window views.
I placed the cage in front of the windows that interested my foundation pair. They liked to bask and court in the early morning sunshine, and watch the wild birds and bugs in the afternoon. This cage measures 3' x 5' x 7' tall, with a 2' wide door. (Cage is 91.44cm x 152.4cm x 213.36cm, door is 60.96cm.)
Materials:
These are not the only materials that will work, it's just a list of what is shown here. Finer mesh can tear out their toenails, and uncoated metal "hardware cloth" will cause cuts and infections on their feet. No glue was used in this project.
3/4" blue line hot/cold plastic 10' pipe, plus T and elbow fittings
reused Reptarium corner fittings
1/2" recyclable plastic mesh "hardware net" (brand name Tenax in this example) in 3' x 15' rolls
several hundred 8" plastic locking cable ties, aka zip ties
6mil plastic sheeting, 10' x 25' roll
Vinyl craft or leatherworker's lace
Three cutting tools, shown below
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To have enough room to work with 10' long pipes, and measure parts, the pipe frame was built in the studio. I measured, marked with a pen, then used the ratchet pipe cutters to cut the 10-footers down to the required lengths. The pipe assembly is even easier than a Reptarium. I did not use glue, since I had to disassamble to carry it all into the chameleon room. The first two panels, the "narrow" ends, are assembled first. The upper end of the mesh is attached first, and allowed to hang during tying, so its own weight helps straighten the rolled mesh. I attached the mesh with the ties, checking that the locks of each tie lined up on the cage exterior (and did not occlude the door frame). Melleri love to shoot and chew on cable tie locks!
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The ends assembled, they are test fit into the chameleon room on the plastic sheet (three layers). Since the free-ranged pair had no trouble with the bare ceiling, I pressure-fit the cage frame to the ceiling. Screen on top would just darken the enclosure and waste material. I do not need a mesh ceiling to hang lamps for this cage.
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Starting the back wall assembly.
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For long walls that require multiple combined panels, use the vinyl lace to weave a smooth and lightweight bond between them. This material flexes with the mesh, and is soft on chameleon feet.
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Second panel of back wall attached.
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Front wall panel attached.
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Test hanging the door.
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Temporary latch for test hanging.
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Door mesh is attached.
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Bottom margin mesh in place under door. A loose roller of pipe is hung on vinyl lace to help keep the mesh end upright, prevent chams from getting a foothold and squeezing out, and to prevent me from breaking the frame when I trip over the margin (because I know I will). The margin exists so that the plastic diaper does not interfere with the door movement.
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Cage dressing beginning with plants and perches. It is about 30% dressed, far more to
come. Perches are attached with ties, see outdoor cage dressing tutorial for tips. One perch reaches the floor, to provide an easy pathway back up, in the event of a fall. The UVB lamp stand is in place next to cage (see lamp stand tutorial for instructions). The hot metal ballast of the UVB fluorescent is on a raised, heat-resistant surface. A mini-cage of metal mesh is around the UVA incandescent heat lamp, which is hanging on the cage's frame with 14-gauge steel wire. Loose cords are cable tied out of the way. The cage bottom is "diapered" with 6mil plastic, three layers. Since this floor is padded and carpeted, no extra cage bottom padding is needed.
Cage dressed, with mist system installed, and plastic sheet around the plant under the mister to catch run-off water.
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